Stack 28 centuries into one city: Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon, Sistine Chapel, and the best carbonara on earth
One trip is never enough — come back for the churches, the neighbourhoods and the food you missed
Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana
Rome’s region — Etruscan tombs, Renaissance villa gardens at Tivoli, volcanic lakes and beaches within reach
Bite a sandwich of herb-roasted whole suckling pig, crackling and all, from a market van
Step inside the best-preserved Roman building — a 2,000-year-old concrete dome open to the sky
Three ingredients, total magic — pasta, pecorino and black pepper emulsified into a glossy Roman sauce
Eggs, pecorino, black pepper and crisp guanciale — and absolutely no cream
Toss a coin over your shoulder into Rome’s baroque masterpiece to guarantee your return
Cross a footbridge to "the dying town" — a near-deserted village marooned on a crumbling tufa pinnacle
Wander a surreal 16th-century garden of giant stone monsters, a tilting house and an ogre’s mouth
Walk through chapels decorated entirely with the bones of 3,700 Capuchin friars
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