Stack 28 centuries into one city: Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon, Sistine Chapel, and the best carbonara on earth
One trip is never enough — come back for the churches, the neighbourhoods and the food you missed
Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana
Rome’s region — Etruscan tombs, Renaissance villa gardens at Tivoli, volcanic lakes and beaches within reach
Walk through chapels decorated entirely with the bones of 3,700 Capuchin friars
Eggs, pecorino, black pepper and crisp guanciale — and absolutely no cream
Bite a sandwich of herb-roasted whole suckling pig, crackling and all, from a market van
Cross a footbridge to "the dying town" — a near-deserted village marooned on a crumbling tufa pinnacle
Wander a surreal 16th-century garden of giant stone monsters, a tilting house and an ogre’s mouth
Step inside the best-preserved Roman building — a 2,000-year-old concrete dome open to the sky
Three ingredients, total magic — pasta, pecorino and black pepper emulsified into a glossy Roman sauce
Toss a coin over your shoulder into Rome’s baroque masterpiece to guarantee your return
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