Visit Civita di Bagnoregio

One trip is never enough — come back for the churches, the neighbourhoods and the food you missed

Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana

Rome’s region — Etruscan tombs, Renaissance villa gardens at Tivoli, volcanic lakes and beaches within reach

Three ingredients, total magic — pasta, pecorino and black pepper emulsified into a glossy Roman sauce

Eggs, pecorino, black pepper and crisp guanciale — and absolutely no cream

Bite a sandwich of herb-roasted whole suckling pig, crackling and all, from a market van

Toss a coin over your shoulder into Rome’s baroque masterpiece to guarantee your return

Step inside the best-preserved Roman building — a 2,000-year-old concrete dome open to the sky