Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain

One trip is never enough — come back for the churches, the neighbourhoods and the food you missed

Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana

Three ingredients, total magic — pasta, pecorino and black pepper emulsified into a glossy Roman sauce

Eggs, pecorino, black pepper and crisp guanciale — and absolutely no cream

Step inside the best-preserved Roman building — a 2,000-year-old concrete dome open to the sky

Walk through chapels decorated entirely with the bones of 3,700 Capuchin friars

Stack 28 centuries into one city: Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon, Sistine Chapel, and the best carbonara on earth

Rome’s region — Etruscan tombs, Renaissance villa gardens at Tivoli, volcanic lakes and beaches within reach