Eat cacio e pepe in Rome

Eggs, pecorino, black pepper and crisp guanciale — and absolutely no cream

One trip is never enough — come back for the churches, the neighbourhoods and the food you missed

Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana

Step inside the best-preserved Roman building — a 2,000-year-old concrete dome open to the sky

Toss a coin over your shoulder into Rome’s baroque masterpiece to guarantee your return

Walk through chapels decorated entirely with the bones of 3,700 Capuchin friars

Stack 28 centuries into one city: Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon, Sistine Chapel, and the best carbonara on earth

Eat properly handmade pasta — egg-rich tagliatelle in the north, bronze-cut durum in the south