Visit Rome

The world's smallest state holds its biggest art: St Peter's, the Vatican Museums and the Sistine ceiling

A city built on water with no cars — gondolas, Byzantine mosaics, and getting happily lost in the back canals

Fashion, finance and Leonardo's Last Supper — plus the most extravagant Gothic cathedral in Italy

The "Florence of the South" — honey-coloured Baroque churches carved from soft Lecce stone

One trip is never enough — come back for the churches, the neighbourhoods and the food you missed

Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana

Three ingredients, total magic — pasta, pecorino and black pepper emulsified into a glossy Roman sauce

Eggs, pecorino, black pepper and crisp guanciale — and absolutely no cream