Eat porchetta

St Francis's pink-stone hill town, crowned by a basilica frescoed by Giotto

Umbria's hill-top capital — Etruscan gates, a grand medieval square, and a famous chocolate festival

One trip is never enough — come back for the churches, the neighbourhoods and the food you missed

Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana

Rome’s region — Etruscan tombs, Renaissance villa gardens at Tivoli, volcanic lakes and beaches within reach

Three ingredients, total magic — pasta, pecorino and black pepper emulsified into a glossy Roman sauce

Eggs, pecorino, black pepper and crisp guanciale — and absolutely no cream

Toss a coin over your shoulder into Rome’s baroque masterpiece to guarantee your return