Bite into the original โ a 60-second wood-fired margherita in the city that invented pizza
Loud, ancient and alive โ the birthplace of pizza, gateway to Pompeii, Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast
Walk the streets of a Roman city frozen mid-life by Vesuvius in 79 AD โ ruts, frescoes, bakeries and all
A vertiginous corniche of lemon groves and pastel towns โ Positano, Amalfi, Ravello above a cobalt sea
Queue at the 1870 Naples pizzeria the world calls the best โ two pizzas on the menu, both perfect
Naples' notorious sail-shaped housing estate โ brutalist symbol of Gomorrah, now mostly demolished
Naples, Pompeii, Vesuvius, Capri and the Amalfi Coast โ Campania crams in Italyโs greatest hits of the south
Eat at the world's first pizzeria, frying and firing pizzas in Naples since 1738
Shatter the crisp clam-shell layers of Naplesโ ricotta-and-semolina breakfast pastry
End a meal with an ice-cold shot of lemon liqueur made from the giant sfusato lemons of the coast
Italy's bleak, brilliant Camorra saga โ the Naples crime series that out-grittied The Wire
Walk to the rim of the volcano that buried Pompeii, with the whole Bay of Naples at your feet
Tear into a fresh ball of buffalo-milk mozzarella in Campania, still warm and dripping whey
Trek the high cliff trail above the Amalfi Coast, the sea shimmering 500 m below
Pompeiiโs smaller, richer twin โ buried so deep its wooden beams, doors and even food survived
A glamorous limestone island in the Bay of Naples, and a sea cave lit electric blue from below
Italy's answer to Versailles โ 1,200 rooms and a 3 km garden of cascades, used as a Star Wars palace
Three colossal Doric temples standing almost intact after 2,500 years, south of the Amalfi Coast
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