Dine at Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba, the world's first pizzeria

Bite into the original — a 60-second wood-fired margherita in the city that invented pizza

Queue at the 1870 Naples pizzeria the world calls the best — two pizzas on the menu, both perfect

Loud, ancient and alive — the birthplace of pizza, gateway to Pompeii, Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast

Naples' notorious sail-shaped housing estate — brutalist symbol of Gomorrah, now mostly demolished

Italy's bleak, brilliant Camorra saga — the Naples crime series that out-grittied The Wire

Shatter the crisp clam-shell layers of Naples’ ricotta-and-semolina breakfast pastry

Skip the chains — eat a real wood-fired Italian pizza where the dough is slow-proved and the tomatoes are San Marzano

Eat Roman pizza two ways — wafer-thin tonda al taglio by weight, or the crisp round pizza romana