Hike the Path of the Gods

A vertiginous corniche of lemon groves and pastel towns — Positano, Amalfi, Ravello above a cobalt sea

End a meal with an ice-cold shot of lemon liqueur made from the giant sfusato lemons of the coast

Bite into the original — a 60-second wood-fired margherita in the city that invented pizza

Loud, ancient and alive — the birthplace of pizza, gateway to Pompeii, Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast

Walk the streets of a Roman city frozen mid-life by Vesuvius in 79 AD — ruts, frescoes, bakeries and all

Queue at the 1870 Naples pizzeria the world calls the best — two pizzas on the menu, both perfect

Naples, Pompeii, Vesuvius, Capri and the Amalfi Coast — Campania crams in Italy’s greatest hits of the south

Naples' notorious sail-shaped housing estate — brutalist symbol of Gomorrah, now mostly demolished