Eat picarones

Eat ceviche where it was invented — raw fish cured in minutes by lime, chilli and leche de tigre

Sip a pisco sour — grape brandy, lime, bitters and egg-white foam — in the country that swears it invented it

Eat lomo saltado, the wok-flamed beef stir-fry where Canton met the Andes — fries in the dish, rice on the side

Join Peru's national ritual: charcoal-spit pollo a la brasa, fries, and the great ají sauce debate

Eat ají de gallina — shredded chicken drowned in velvet yellow-chilli cream, Lima comfort food since colonial days

Eat anticuchos at dusk — smoky beef-heart skewers from a street grill, Afro-Peruvian soul food

Eat causa — chilled towers of lime-and-chilli mashed potato, proof Peru does things with potatoes nobody else imagined

Drink chicha morada, the violet corn nectar Peruvians pour with everything — and meet its wild fermented ancestor