Visit Parma

Eat the "king of cheeses" where it’s made — aged in giant wheels stamped by the consortium

Red-brick arcades, the oldest university in the world, and the richest table in Italy — la grassa, "the fat one"

Italy's gastronomic heartland — Parmigiano, prosciutto, balsamic, tortellini and Ferrari, all in one region

Byzantine mosaics that glow like jewels — the last capital of the Western Roman Empire

Europe's first planned Renaissance city — a moated castle, bicycles everywhere, and the Este legacy

Eat the real "bolognese" — slow ragù on fresh egg tagliatelle, never on spaghetti

Spoon up tiny meat-filled pasta knots floating in clear capon broth — Emilia’s Christmas-table soul food

Walk among red icons at the Ferrari shrine, in the Emilia "Motor Valley" that also births Lamborghini and Ducati