Red-brick arcades, the oldest university in the world, and the richest table in Italy — la grassa, "the fat one"
Italy's gastronomic heartland — Parmigiano, prosciutto, balsamic, tortellini and Ferrari, all in one region
Walk among red icons at the Ferrari shrine, in the Emilia "Motor Valley" that also births Lamborghini and Ducati
Eat the "king of cheeses" where it’s made — aged in giant wheels stamped by the consortium
Spoon up tiny meat-filled pasta knots floating in clear capon broth — Emilia’s Christmas-table soul food
Eat the real "bolognese" — slow ragù on fresh egg tagliatelle, never on spaghetti
Byzantine mosaics that glow like jewels — the last capital of the Western Roman Empire
The source of Parmigiano-Reggiano and prosciutto di Parma — plus Correggio frescoes and an elegant old town
Europe's first planned Renaissance city — a moated castle, bicycles everywhere, and the Este legacy
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