Read the Neapolitan Novels

Elena and Lila in a Naples courtyard in the 1950s; the first Neapolitan novel.

Bite into the original — a 60-second wood-fired margherita in the city that invented pizza

Loud, ancient and alive — the birthplace of pizza, gateway to Pompeii, Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast

Queue at the 1870 Naples pizzeria the world calls the best — two pizzas on the menu, both perfect

Naples' notorious sail-shaped housing estate — brutalist symbol of Gomorrah, now mostly demolished

Eat at the world's first pizzeria, frying and firing pizzas in Naples since 1738

Italy's bleak, brilliant Camorra saga — the Naples crime series that out-grittied The Wire

Learn Scopa, the sweep-the-table card game played in every Italian bar and kitchen