Eat panettone at Christmas

Fashion, finance and Leonardo's Last Supper — plus the most extravagant Gothic cathedral in Italy

See opera where Verdi premiered — Milan's Teatro alla Scala, the most storied opera house in the world

Catch a 15-minute audience with Leonardo's fading masterpiece on a Milan refectory wall

Try Milan’s golden saffron risotto — creamy, rich, and traditionally served with ossobuco

Dig into braised veal shank with gremolata — Milanese comfort food, marrow and all

Patrizia Reggiani marries into the family, is pushed out, and has her ex-husband shot.

A southern family moves to Milan and the brothers destroy each other; Visconti's epic.

Glittering Alpine lake ringed by villas and gardens — George Clooney's neighbourhood for good reason