Play Scopa

Master Briscola, the bluff-and-trump card game that fuels Italian bar rivalries

Pick up Tressette, the subtle, signal-driven Italian trick game of cunning and partnership

Bite into the original — a 60-second wood-fired margherita in the city that invented pizza

Loud, ancient and alive — the birthplace of pizza, gateway to Pompeii, Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast

Queue at the 1870 Naples pizzeria the world calls the best — two pizzas on the menu, both perfect

Naples' notorious sail-shaped housing estate — brutalist symbol of Gomorrah, now mostly demolished

Eat at the world's first pizzeria, frying and firing pizzas in Naples since 1738

Italy's bleak, brilliant Camorra saga — the Naples crime series that out-grittied The Wire